The Saunders Blog

The Great Florida Outback

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Myakka River State Park

We were informed the other day by friends who are avid hikers, campers and birders that not only is June National Camping Month but also that 2010 marks the 75^th Anniversary of Florida State Parks.  So to honor their good-natured scolding that this column has yet to address the recreational opportunities that exist in what they like to call the “Great Florida Outback,” today’s feature is dedicated to the sea of green that defines eastern Sarasota and Manatee Counties, mainly east of I-75.

The first destination that comes to mind, of course, is the granddaddy of them all—Myakka River State Park—which is not only Florida’s largest state park, but also one of its oldest.  Just nine miles east of Sarasota, its 58 square miles of wetlands, prairies, hammocks and pinelands are bisected by the hauntingly beautiful Myakka River—whose serpentine length stretches some 66 miles from its headwaters in Northern Manatee County to its outfall in Charlotte Harbor.

Due to strong grassroots support for preserving its magnificent scenery and pristine qualities, the Myakka River was declared “Wild and Scenic” by the Florida Legislature in 1985.   Moreover, the legislature noted that the segment running through Manatee, Sarasota, and Charlotte Counties “possesses remarkable ecological, fish and wildlife, and recreational values which are unique to the State of Florida.”

Before there was a Myakka State Park, much of its land—then known as Meadow Sweet Pastures Ranch—was owned by Bertha Honore Palmer, one of Southwest Florida’s most important historical figures. Palmer used her land to raise cattle; and much to the amazement, annoyance and barely-concealed anger of her neighboring ranchers, this most unlikely rancher and doyenne of Chicago society completely “out-ranched” them all by adopting new cattle-rearing techniques for which she was looked upon as being certifiably crazy.  For one thing, she was the first to dip her cattle in insecticide to prevent deadly tick-borne illnesses from decimating her herd; an unheard-of process her fellow ranchers were sure would annihilate the cattle first.  She also was first to fence-in her cattle, something that wasn’t required by Florida statute until 1949.  Twelve years after her passing in 1918, her sons donated 2,000 acres of the ranch to form much of what is today Myakka River State Park.

Park visitors enjoy numerous activities grounded in Florida’s splendid interior ecosystem, including wildlife viewing from a boardwalk that stretches well out into Upper Myakka Lake.  Not far away, you can literally tiptoe through the treetops while strolling across a suspended aerial walkway; before climbing the park’s observation tower for an unobstructed miles-on view in all directions.  The sky is big out east—very big—with its wide open panorama one of the most magnificent features about being there.  At night, with practically no artificial light or manmade structures to obscure the view, the sky comes vividly to life with an astonishing density of stars, showering meteors and a moon so aglow it often casts a deep shadow.

During peak migratory seasons, the green belt in and around the park provides a major stopover for countless species of birds shuttling north and south.  The annual Christmas count recorded more than 107 different species in a single day’s count toward the end of 2009!  Of course, long before spotting many of these birds you’re more apt to hear the symphony of songs, calls and mating pleas that announce their presence—particularly in the early morning and just before sunset—when all of the park’s wildlife tends to be most active and on the move.

The river and the park’s two lakes provide ample opportunities for minimum-speed boating, freshwater fishing, canoeing, kayaking and gator-spotting. On land, hikers explore 39 miles of dedicated hiking trails that criss-cross huge expanses of rare Florida dry prairie and pass through pleasantly shaded hardwood hammocks.  Meanwhile, cyclists peddle leisurely along miles of flat, tree-canopied roads that wind past grassy marshes; and at water level along the upper lake’s shore.  Mountain bikers are additionally privy to several miles of backcountry dirt roads.

Scenic lake tours are offered daily on the world´s two largest airboats, The Myakka Maiden and Gator Gal; and safari-like tram tours of the park´s backcountry are offered from mid-December through May.

Two campgrounds—with water and electrical hookups, full bath, shower and laundry facilities—along with more primitive campsites, accommodate all levels of camping.  Near one of these campgrounds five palm log cabins, constructed in the 1930s by the Civilian Conservation Corps, are nestled near the river and though appropriately rustic have been modernized to provide complete air-conditioned comfort.

In addition to Myakka River State Park, Lake Manatee State Park—in Manatee County; and Oscar Scherer State Park—near Osprey in Sarasota County—offer first-rate hiking, camping and birding experiences.  Oscar Scherer State Park is noteworthy for large expanses of scrubby flatwoods—spread over two square miles and inclusive of 15 miles of hiking trails—that make this one of the best places in the state to encounter the elusive Florida scrub-jay, a threatened species found only in Florida. Further north, Lake Manatee State Park extends along three miles of the south shore of Lake Manatee—a major source of water for Manatee and Sarasota counties.  Find out more about the region’s state parks by visiting Floridastateparks.org.

Now that we’ve been properly chastised for not focusing enough attention on the parks and recreational opportunities that exist for campers, hikers, birders and other fans of the Great Florida Outback you can bet you’ll be seeing more in the future; as today’s column barely touches on all the possibilities.  A visit to these splendid parks makes it obvious why so many people, upon simultaneously experiencing both their wild and pastoral sides, often opt to forsake city life for country living at its best.